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7 min read
4/15/25

Mild and mighty ingredients that power sensitive skin care

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As the demand for sensitive skin care continues to rise, so does the need for thoughtful formulation strategies prioritising efficacy and skin tolerance. Every ingredient has a vital role—ensuring the final product is gentle and delivers real, visible benefits without causing irritation.

A well-designed formulation relies on a carefully balanced blend of skin-compatible ingredients that work well together. From soothing actives that reduce inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier to functional components that enhance stability, sensory appeal, and protection, each component contributes to a holistic formulation approach.

Explore our curated list of mild yet mighty ingredients, organised by category, to help you find the perfect fit for your next sensitive skin care formulation.

Click on a category below to find what you’re looking for.
  • Active ingredient – soothes inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier
  • Exfoliating agent – gentle, non-abrasive skin renewal
  • Mild emulsifier – formulation stability without irritation
  • Rheology modifier – formulation consistency and spreadability 
  • Sensory enhancer and emollient  – soft, breathable finish
  • Mild surfactant – non-stripping and gentle cleansing
  • UV filter – safe and high-performance sun protection

Active ingredient

Noxifense™

INCI:  Octyldodecyl Myristate (and) Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract
Description: 100% plant-based, upcycled bioactive designed to tackle oxi-inflammation, the harmful interplay between oxidative stress and inflammation. 
Ingredient highlights
✅ Offers soothing effects through its flavonoids known for anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties
✅ Proven to protect epidermal lipids from exposome-induced damage and disrupt the oxi-inflammatory cycle
✅ Strengthens skin's defence mechanisms against environmental stress
NoxifenseRequest for sample

Epin'Derm

INCI: Bisabolol, Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil
Description: 100% natural, plant-based active that delivers instant action on the main layers of the skin - aids in skin recovery, decreases transepidermal water loss, protects the cutaneous barrier, and stimulates cell proliferation and collagen production.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Soothes skin from photo exposure, reversing free radical damage 
✅ Skin barrier protection: Forming a soothing film on the epidermis and strengthening the skin barrier to prevent water loss.
✅ Retinol-like performance: Boosts production and organisation of collagen and elastin fibres, increasing skin firmness and elasticity
EpinDermRequest for sample

Exfoliating agent

Verochic®

INCI: Shikimic Acid
Description: Powerful but gentle exfoliating agent made up of pure shikimic acid that provides soothing and antimicrobial benefits 
Ingredient highlights
✅ Exhibits stronger and milder exfoliating action than glycolic acid
✅ Antalgic properties - soothes irritated or inflamed skin
✅ Antimicrobial - inhibits microbial growth of P. Acnes (which can cause inflammation and acne breakouts when it grows too much)
VerochicRequest for sample

Mild emulsifier

Emulium® Dermolea MB

INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Description: 100% natural, PEG-free O/W emulsifier designed for sensitive skin, with added soothing and sensorial benefits.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Helps reduce stress and brings a long-term soothing effect to the skin
✅ Creates a moisturising base that supports the skin barrier function by reducing trans epidermal water loss
✅ Creates stable emulsions with a soft, creamy texture and is compatible with cold or hot processes and a wide pH range
Emuulium DermoleaRequest for sample

KELCOSENS™ PiEL Citrus Fiber

INCI: Citrus peel fiber 
Description: Nature-based alternative to PEG-based and synthetic emulsifier, made from upcycled citrus peels that offer good pick-up and playtime, pleasant texture and light, refreshing skin feel.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Gentle on the skin
✅ Delivers different textures, from serums to lotions and creams, with a refreshing skin feeling and silky, smooth finish
✅ Delivers robust stabilisation 

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Rheology modifier

KELTROL® CG-SFT

INCI: Xanthan gum
Description: Xanthan gum with smooth-flow rheology that gives transparent solutions.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Non-irritating, gentle and biodegradable
✅ Delivers a smooth, silky and non-sticky skin feel
✅ Acts as a thickener, enhances the stability of emulsions and possesses suspending properties

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Sensory enhancer and emollient  

Acticire® MB

INCI:  Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3
Description: 100% natural texturising agent that forms a soft, smooth film that protects the skin from dehydration and ensures a comfortable skin feel throughout the day.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Offers lasting moisturisation and comfort
✅ Enhances sensorial qualities
✅ Improves formulation stability
acticireRequest for sample

Lipocire™ A SG

INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides
Description: Excellent affinity with the skin's hydro-lipidic film. It has a melting point close to skin temperature and melts on contact, offering comfort, softness, and a unique sensory experience.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Blends well with skin's natural oils because it contains triglycerides (like the ones in the skin)
✅ Provides melting sensation upon application and light after-feel
✅ Improves stability and comfort

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Mild surfactant

Plantapon® Amino KG-L

INCI: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Description: Skin-friendly, high-purity amino acid surfactant that foams quicker and creamier than traditional amino acid surfactants and delivers better transparency in the formulations. Exists as an almost colourless transparent liquid.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Mild amino acid-based surfactant with low irritation
✅ Preservative-free, high purity
✅ Excellent foaming power and foam volume

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Plantapon® Amino MCT-UP

INCI:  Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Description: Skin-friendly, high-purity amino acid surfactant that foams quicker and creamier than traditional amino acid surfactants and delivers better transparency in the formulations. Exists as a paste.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Mild amino acid-based surfactant with low irritation
✅ Excellent foaming performance in sulfate-free formulations
✅ Easy to formulate with excellent clarity, viscosity, and foam across a wide pH range

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UV filter

Tinosorb® A2B

INCI: Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Disodium Phosphate (and) Xanthan Gum
Description: The most efficient UVB/UVA II filter, which can be incorporated into the water phase of emulsions.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Suitable for sensitive skin and kids; does not contain preservatives
✅ High SPF performance at low concentration, which minimises potential irritation
✅ Increases formulation flexibility and cold processable 

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Tinosorb® M

INCI:  Methylene Bis- Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) (and) Water (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum
Description: Unique photo-stable, broad-spectrum UV filter for the water phase that has a boosting effect with oil-soluble UV filters. Based on micro-fine organic particle technology.
Ingredient highlights
✅ Photo-stable UV protection; helps prevent photo-induced irritation and inflammation
✅ Hybrid mechanism (organic + inorganic-like); absorbs and scatter/reflects UV at the same time, minimising skin penetration
✅ Highly efficient at low concentrations, free of preservatives 

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Looking to formulate your next sensitive skin-friendly formulation?

As consumer expectations evolve, formulating for sensitive skin is no longer about avoiding irritants—it's about creating high-performing, skin-supportive products that soothe, protect, and strengthen the skin over time. 

At Azelis, our technical experts are here to help you navigate ingredient selection and formulation strategies tailored to sensitive skin care.
If you'd like to learn more or explore the latest ingredient innovations, feel free to contact us here.

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