Modern sunscreen formulation: moving beyond UV filters alone
As the sun care market continues to evolve, formulators are facing increasing pressure to deliver products that meet multiple demands at once—higher SPF, lighter textures, improved safety profiles, and enhanced sustainability.
Traditional formulation approaches, which rely heavily on increasing UV filter concentrations, are becoming less viable.
Higher UV filter loading can negatively impact texture, spreadability, skin feel, and formulation flexibility. In addition, uneven distribution of UV filters across the skin may reduce real-world protection, while certain UV filters present formulation challenges related to solubility, stability, and compatibility.
As consumers increasingly expect sunscreens to feel like skin care, formulators must deliver products that combine high efficacy with elegant textures and consistent performance.
This has led to a shift in formulation strategy: moving beyond UV filters alone and toward optimising the entire UV protection system and how it is maintained on the skin.
Addressing modern sunscreen challenges through multiple protection mechanisms
While UV filters form the backbone of sun protection, achieving high sunscreen performance should not rely solely on increasing UV filter loading.
Instead, it depends on optimising multiple complementary protection mechanisms that work together to maximise efficacy, including:
- Broad-spectrum UV absorption
- Efficient UV light scattering and reflection
- Homogeneous film formation across the skin
- Photostable UV filter systems
By enhancing these mechanisms simultaneously, formulators can maximise SPF and UVA protection while maintaining lightweight textures, improved aesthetics, and formulation flexibility.
Two ingredients with this technology that support this approach are Tinomax™ CC, which enhances UV light scattering, and Cutina® Shine, which improves sunscreen film formation.
Enhancing UV light scattering with Tinomax™ CC
One of the challenges in modern sunscreen formulation is improving UV protection without continually increasing UV filter loading, which can compromise skin feel and product aesthetics.
Tinomax™ CC helps enhance SPF and UVA protection through light birefringence, improving how UV radiation interacts with the sunscreen film. By increasing the effective path of UV light through the formulation, UV filters have more opportunity to absorb UV energy, improving overall protection efficiency.
Tinomax™ CC works well in systems containing organic-soluble UV filters or particles dispersed in the oil phase.
Benefits
- Enhances UV light scattering
- Improves UV absorbance efficiency
- Boosts SPF performance
- Supports reduced reliance on higher UV filter loading
- Maintains lightweight sensory profiles
Enhancing film forming with Cutina® Shine
Achieving consistent UV protection depends not only on the UV filters selected but also on how evenly they form a film on the skin. Uneven film formation can create weak spots with lower UV protection, reducing overall sunscreen performance.
A strong film not only keeps UV filters evenly distributed but also ensures the protection remains intact under real-life conditions. This directly translates into more consistent, long-lasting coverage on the skin, reducing the risk of a performance drop during wear
Cutina® Shine helps promote a more uniform and cohesive film, which can support better photoprotection and water resistance while maintaining good formulation compatibility.
Benefits
- Promotes homogeneous sunscreen film formation
- Optimises UV filter distribution
- Enhances SPF and UVA protection
- Improves water resistance
- High formulation compatibility
Achieve more with your sunscreen formulation
As sunscreen demands continue to evolve, formulators need solutions that do not simply rely on UV filter loading.
Today's formulations must deliver superior UV protection while maintaining lightweight textures, photostability, elegant sensoriality, and formulation flexibility.
By adopting a multi-mechanism approach to UV protection, formulators can optimise sunscreen performance more efficiently. Tinomax™ CC and Cutina® Shine represent two approaches to improving sun care performance: one enhances UV protection efficiency through light birefringence, while the other promotes more uniform film formation for better photoprotection and water resistance.
Together, these complementary technologies help maximise the effectiveness of UV filters, enabling formulators to achieve higher-performing sunscreens without compromising aesthetics or consumer experience.
By increasing the overall effectiveness of UV interactions within the system, SPF boosters allow for more refined formulations that deliver high performance without compromising texture or usability.
Whether you're developing lightweight daily sunscreens, premium skin care hybrids, or next-generation sun protection formats, these complementary technologies provide the foundation for creating products that meet both technical requirements and evolving consumer expectations.
Connect with our formulation experts to explore how Tinomax™ CC and Cutina® Shine can help elevate your next sunscreen innovation.
Request for product samplesFormulation inspirations
This formulation is a powder-based sunscreen in a convenient brush format, delivering broad-spectrum UV protection with effortless, on-the-go application. It offers a soft matte, doll-like finish while helping control sebum, hydrate, and brighten the skin for comfortable, all-day wear.
AZCAT-24051-01PN-PC-MY
SunPlay! Portable Protection Brush SPF50+ PA++++ is a unique powder-based sunscreen in a convenient brush format, offering broad UV defense with just a quick swipe. It is designed for easy application throughout the day, on bare skin or with makeup; it imparts a matte doll-like finish and comfortable wear throughout the day. Infused with Vitamin E and botanical extracts, this powder sunscreen also controls sebum, hydrates, and brightens—making it the perfect blend of skin care and sun care in one! Key ingredients: Z-COTE® HP1: nano, broad-spectrum, coated micronized zinc oxide that functions as a UV filter. Z-COTE® LSA: non-nano, broad-spectrum, coated micronized zinc oxide that functions as a UV filter. Tinomax™ CC: natural-based skin sensory enhancer that provides sunscreen-improved performance for SPF and UVA.
This formulation delivers high UVA/UVB protection in a soft whipped texture that melts seamlessly onto the skin. It provides a lightweight, non‑greasy matte finish while supporting hydration for a fresh, shine‑free complexion.
260301W
HA‑Stimulating Matte Whipped Sunscreen SPF50 PA++++ features a soft yet dense whipped‑cream texture that spreads smoothly over the skin, delivering high UVA/UVB protection with a refined matte finish. The firm, airy cream melts effortlessly upon application, leaving a dry, lightweight after‑feel without greasiness or residue. Formulated to support hyaluronic acid stimulation, it helps maintain skin hydration while keeping the complexion fresh, comfortable, and shine‑free throughout the day. Edeta®BD: An organic chelating agent can sequester undesirable metal ions in cosmetic preparationsEmulgade® Verde 10MS: Versatile, plant-based, non-ionic O/W emulsifier that creates lamellar liquid crystal structures, improves skin spreadability, and provides long-lasting hydration. Eumulgin® SG: Natural-derived, anionic oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier that creates light, non-greasy, "nude" feel emulsions. Cetiol® B: Fast spreading emollient especially suitable for sun care formulations due to excellent solubilising capacities for crystalline UV-filters. Helps prevent sticky textures and provides a light, elegant skin feel. Uvinul® A Plus B: High-performance, broad-spectrum, UVA and UVB filter. Uvinul® T 150: Highly efficient, organic UVB filter in sunscreens. Tinosorb® S: Highly efficient, broad-spectrum organic UV filter that protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays Cutina® PES: Consistency wax and emulsion stabiliser that does not leave a heavy, sticky, or waxy feel on the skin. Cutina® Shine: UV-enhancing film-former that improves sunscreen application by forming a smooth, uniform layer on the skin while providing a pleasant, non-greasy sensory feel. Uvinul® TS Hydro: Highly efficient, water-soluble UVA filter with extended UVB absorption Tinovis® GTC UP: High-efficiency rheology modifier, thickener, and emulsion stabiliser delivering a fresh, silky, and water-like skin feel.
